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This is an HTML reprint of the original factory installation of a solid state controller in a Citi-Car or Comuta-Car. We have kept this information as close to the original document as possible and is intended as informational ONLY. Please consult the installation instructions for your particular controller. Editors Notes are inserted in Maroon.


Technical Service Bulletin

SERVICE & PARTS DIVISION
INSTALLATION INSTRUCTION: SOLID STATE CONTROLLERS

MODEL: "POWERFLOW 17" 36-48 VOLT - FOR COMUTA-CAR-CITI-CAR-SEBRING VANGUARD

PLEASE READ THESE INSTRUCTIONS ALONG WITH THE PMC INSTALLATION MANUAL THOROUGHLY BEFORE ATTEMPTING TO INSTALL THIS CONTROLLER.

DATE: SEPTEMBER 1984

(MAXIMUM VOLTAGE IS 48V ON THIS CONTROLLER.)
(EIGHT 6V BATTERIES)

STEP 1: Remove all heavy high power cables from the batteries, motor, contactors and resistor coil. Lay them on the floor for re-installation. Wire brush or buff with wire wheel to clean off all corrosion from the ends. On Commuta-Car do not remove the two long cables coming from the front battery pack.
Step 2: Remove the first speed resistor coil completely. (See Illustration #3) Resistor coil may be located up under right rear of vehicle frame. Some are located just left and forward of the right rear wheel. The resistor coil and ceramic insulators will no longer be used.
Step 3: Remove the SP-1 contactor and the 250-300 amp fuse from the vehicle. (See illustration #1 and illustration #2) The SP-1 contactor is the shortest of the two contactors and has only one coil in the bottom of it. The SP-1 contactor will no longer be needed in the system. Save the 250-300 amp fuse for re-use. The two small 12 volt wires from the SP-1 contactor should be bent back and taped.
Step 4: In front of the accelerator rod you will see a cluster of micro switches and small wires. Unplug the wires from the switches and remove the cluster, but leave the backing plate there. Save the parts that go to the accelerator rod.  Connect the purple, brown and red wires together securely with suitable connector and tape.
Step 5: The solenoid controller (See illustration #4) should not have anything connected to it accept one 12 volt+ wire on one small terminal and a 12 volt - wire from the other small terminal to the frame. You may use the 12 volt + wire you bent back and taped from from the SP-1 contactor. Now turn the key on and see if the solenoid will click.
Step 6: The tall contactor can now be checked to see if it is working properly. Make sure the emergency brake is down. Put dash switch in forward and contactor should click in either up or down and make all four points contact. Put dash switch in reverse and all four points should switch to make contact in the opposite direction. When the dash switch is put in neutral position none of the points should make contact.
Step 7: The speed control box provided with your installation kit is silver in color and has a control arm on it. The three wires coming out of it are red, black and white. Mount the speed control unit to operate with the ball and socket as it did on the old speed cam. Remove the ball from the speed cam switch and attach it to the speed control arm. When depressing the pedal to the floor position, the speed control unit should be in its full "on" position. This will insure full throttle and speed when pedal is pressed to the floor. When pedal is released from the floor the speed control unit must entirely in its "off" position. If the speed control unit does not return entirely to its "off" position, the unit will not operate, as the controller would have no signal when the key is turned on. This is a safety feature of the controller so the vehicle will not move if the pedal is being pressed down when the ignition is turned on.
Step 8: Install the new Power Flow Controller up in under the vehicle rear frame to allow for air cooling but to protect from water and mud. Facing the cooling fins down seems to be the best installation. Although standing unit on its side will do well also. The unit is heavy, be sure to anchor it to the frame securely.
Step 9: Install the new 250-300 amp fuse holder in a convenient location inside of the under seat compartment. Protect from accidentally being shorted out by seat belts buckles or any metal objects that might fall down against the fuse and frame. (See High Power Wiring Diagram for your car installation on location of fuse holder). (Suggestion, while installing the fuse holder, install it on a piece of rubber large enough to be able to drape down over the holder and fuse to protect from shorts.
Step 10: Now, before you install the high power cables. This is a very good time to check your motor brushes. There are four (4) brushes to check and some motors may even have to be removed to this. Brushes are available at the factory. Also check the tightness on the nuts that are holding four (4) cable studs on the outside of the motor. DO NOT allow the studs to turn while tightening these nuts.
Step 11: HIGH POWER CABLE INSTALLATION

A. For vehicles with battery packs under the seat, follow the installation diagram for the citi-car. ( Note: Plug diode - illustration #4).

B. For vehicles with batteries to the front and to the rear, follow the installation diagram for the comuta-car. (Note: Plug diode - illustration #4).

Step 12: VERY IMPORTANT - TEST WITH VOLTMETER BEFORE KEY IS TURNED ON. Install 300 AMP fuse into new fuse holder. Put the positive probe of your volt meter on the (+) side of the main power solenoid. Put the negative probe of your volt meter on the controller (B-) terminal. If everything is hooked up properly,  you will read 48 volts.
Step 13: If the charger negative wire originally was connected to either the SP-1 or solenoid, it should now be connected to the (B-) terminal on the controller. If the charger did not have a negative wire, but was grounded to the frame internally, then a ground wire must be installed from the (B-) terminal of the controller to the car frame. A 40 amp breaker would be advisable in the line. After reviewing as to the proper ground to provide for the charger, then connect the positive wire from the charger to the 48 Volt (+) battery (+) side of the the power solenoid. On vehicles with batteries under the seat according to the Citi-Car diagram. The positive charger wire would be connected to the battery (+) side under the passengers seat.
Warning: SHOCK OR BURN HAZARD - While connecting charger as described in this paragraph, CAUTION should be taken to prevent personal injury.
Step 14: To perform a preliminary test as to whether the controller is working properly or not. Using a two wire socket and an ordinary 110 volt 100 watt light bulb, connect the wires between the (B+) terminal and he (M) terminal of the controller with the F&R contactor in the center or neutral position.

FOR SAFETY REASONS.  .   .  .  .  .  rear wheels should be off the ground. Slowly depress the throttle, light bulb should go from very dim to a brighter condition as pedal is depressed. The controller is now working properly and the unit is ready to operate.

Special note for new 1209 series MOSFET controllers: It is not necessary to connect anything to the A-2 lug, It should however be covered by tape or plastic to prevent shorts. Please note  with these control units you MUST COME TO A COMPLETE STOP BEFORE REVERSING OR CONTROL FAILURE WILL RESULT.

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